We had a decent night’s sleep before hitting up the Hilton’s free breakfast in the executive lounge, a perk due to Nicole’s Hilton Honors Diamond status. We left the hotel about quarter to nine to catch a 1055am flight from an airport that was a 45 minute drive away. The Grab that we grabbed was unfortunately slow and cars were flying by us on both sides as we puttered along at 75 kph on major highways. It wasn’t an ideal way to get to the airport. It took about an hour in the end.
Check-in slowed us down a bit as well. We got right up to a desk, but we had to show onward travel from Kuching. I thought that was strange because nobody seemed to care when we entered Kuala Lumpur, and we were going on a domestic flight. I showed him the flight number on flightaware for a flight to Brunei that we hadn’t actually booked. Usually that tactic is enough to satisfy most ticket agents, but not this one. So I had to physically book a ticket on the spot. Again, given that the flight was scheduled to be boarding at the time we were still at the ticket counter, none of these setbacks were ideal.
Security was mercifully easy and quick. We power walked through the Duty Free store and onward to gate A9, where there was no aircraft. To recycle a rather dark joke I like to use about Malaysia Airlines, their planes do tend to disappear without explanation. Five minutes later, the 737 pulled up to the gate and passengers disembarked for some time before we all boarded behind schedule. Soon enough we were on our way out of Kuala Lumpur and on to Kuching. Though the flight is blocked for just 1h50m, there were multiple beverage services and an inflight meal. This just about matches United’s service for a 12-hour flight. We arrived safely to Kuching’s airport on Sarawak — one of the Malaysian regions of Borneo. More on that in the next paragraph…
We were a bit surprised when we were funneled into immigration lines. We received a new stamp in our passports for Sarawak, with a note saying we were allowed to stay for 90 days from today— a rule seemingly in conflict with Malaysia’s 90 days stamp which started 2 days ago. There was a sign stating that those with Sarawak passports could use a special line with e-gates. I was very confused. The ticket agent’s insistence on having onward travel from Kuching now made a little bit more sense. I spent half of the twenty minute Grab ride trying to make sense of what just happened. The best I can try and explain it is that Sarawak (and Sabah in the north of Borneo) are part of a somewhat loose federation of Malaysia. They were afforded a greater degree of autonomy and can set their own rules to a great extent including immigration controls, language, official religion etc. They would compete under the Malaysian flag for the Olympics, but they have their own unique passports. Based on this, and my set criteria for what constitutes a country, I guess we are counting Sarawak as a new country. It seems to be most similar in status to something like Hong Kong or Macau.
The name Kuching seems to derive from the Malay word for “cat,” and Kuching is sometimes known as “Cat City.” With that being said, I was actually expecting a bunch of stray cats everywhere, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. There was one small one near the entrance to the Hilton when we arrived, but I think that’s just to greet visitors when they first arrive. We never saw it again. We did however make a small trip to the cat statue of Kuching — an obvious must-see if there ever was.
Following the cat statue, we walked along the waterfront. There were countless stalls for handicrafts, food, or various other wares. Across the water is the unique-shaped Sarawak Legislative Assembly building. Next to it is the TALLEST FLAGPOLE IN SOUTHEAST ASIA. Watch out! This evidently means that the largest flag is elsewhere in Southeast Asia on a smaller flag pole, which seems like a bit of a crime.
We made a few purchases at a shop before going out for dinner at a restaurant called Zinc that had some decent atmosphere and seating outside. It did not, however, have Santa like our dinner last night. Also criminal. I walked a bit along the waterfront at dark because I had read that there is a light and fountain display. The waterfront area was much more bustling after dark.
The lights and fountain display eventually began. There wasn’t any music, but I suspect there was meant to be. I left a bit before it ended. It was no Bellagio after all. We then regrouped to try and determine the next few days of our Borneo adventure.
passports & pepto bismol 